There are some big changes happening here, and we wanted to let you know about them, because this will affect the way we do business going forward. We have seen unprecedented growth during the first two quarters of 2020. We are grateful that you trust us with your business, and it is a trust that we take very seriously. We know that you need the items we sell so that your business can be successful. Because of this, we will continue to work very hard to get every order processed and shipped, or ready for pick up as quickly as possible.
To ensure that we continue to provide this level of service, we are making certain changes so that we can be as efficient as possible with our time and effort. Here are the changes that could affect you:
- Starting immediately, the showroom will be closed. This space is being converted for another use that is critical to the function of our business.
- Order Pick Ups: You should receive both a text and an email notice when your order is ready for pick up. Please wait to come to our location until you receive this notice.
- Sampling Fragrance: Because we are closing the showroom, we are adding a “Scent Strip Sample” to each of the fragrances so that you can experience a fragrance without having to spend a lot of money. Each scent strip is dipped in the fragrance of your choice, placed in a small zip bag and labeled with the fragrance name. There is a minimal charge for the Scent Strip Sample, and shipping fees apply unless they are shipped with an order. Adding these to the site is a huge project and will take some time, so please be patient until they are added.
- Current Order Processing Time Please prepare for a minimum of 24 business hours’ order processing time for all orders, including pick up orders.
- Order Add-Ons: All orders are treated as a new order. If you wait to add items until you arrive at our location, your new order will be added to the queue of existing orders, and you will likely have to return for these items. We will not be staying late to process orders placed on site.
- Phone Calls: For those of you who place your orders by the phone this will be very important information. We will not be answering the phone unless we are between tasks, which means rarely. Please leave a message or send an email if you need to speak with us. We will return phone calls within 24 business hours, so you can still order over the phone, but be prepared for this delay. We encourage everyone to place orders on the web site.
- New Text Message System – We now have the technology to send text updates regarding your order status. Please be sure to complete your order with a current cell phone number to receive these updates.
- We are discontinuing Second Saturday Pick Ups. However, we will continue to offer weekend appointments for those purchasing $300 or more in merchandise, but the orders must be placed no later than noon of the Friday before. Appointments are subject to our availability and are not guaranteed.
Thank you for your continued loyalty and understanding as we grow to meet your needs!
Robert and Christine Begg
Community Candle Supply
Candle Troubleshooting Tips
Wet Spots: Shrinkage & air bubbles that occur as the wax is cooling in container causing the wax to pull away from the glassware. Possible Causes: Humidity, raising or lowering the pour temp, environmental temperatures, pouring too quickly, cooling candles are placed too close together & hold heat unevenly. Possible Solutions: Pre-heat your glassware prior to pouring, pour wax very slowly into container, tap the glassware gently after pouring to release any air bubbles, a room temp of 70-72° is best when pouring, place freshly poured candles about 4″ apart when cooling to avoid extra heat being held in on sides.
Candle wax is not burning evenly all of the way down: Possible Causes: Wick may not be centered, wick may be too small, your wax may be too hard (too high of a melt point). Candle may be in a draft, under a fan, near a vent. Possible Solutions: Use a device to help center wick such as wick bar, or other centering tool. Try using a softer, lower melt point wax or try using a larger wick. It is very important to choose the right size wick for the diameter of each container you use. Keep away from drafts.
Tunneling: Candle has “tunneling” effect (leaving wax on the
sides of container candles. Possible Causes: Wick size is not large enough for your wax, container, fragrance, dye combination. Dark or highly-fragranced candles often need a larger wick. Possible Solutions: You may need to go up one or two sizes in the wick series you are using. If you have a container with varying widths, measure the widest & narrowest & use an average for the
Mushrooming: Candle wick is “mushrooming” or has a carbon buildup at the end of the wick. Possible Causes: Wick is too large for the container, wick has not been properly trimmed, using a higher amount of fragrance oil in your candles may cause a “fragrance mushroom”. Possible Solutions: Try using a smaller wick for your container, burn candles no longer than 2-3 hrs at a time without blowing out & trimming the wick to 1/4″.
Frosting: “White Frosting” in Soy. This is caused by tiny crystal growth that forms on the top & sides of the wax. It is a natural byproduct of a natural wax, it does not affect the burn & is very common. Possible Causes: Pouring wax too quickly into containers, pouring wax at too high of a temp, candles cooled too quickly (wax in container), wax blended/stirred too vigorously prior to pouring, environmental temperatures. Possible Solutions: Mix/stir wax slowly, preheat glassware in a warm oven to a max of 100°, pour your wax at a lower temp to help reduce the crystal formation, cool at room temperature & keep out of drafts, try making non-colored soy candles to make frosting less noticeable, elevate your candles on a wire rack for even cooling.
Fragrance leaching: Fragrance oil is “leaching” through top of candle. Excessive soot and/or smoking. Possible Cause: Overloading a wax with a higher fragrance percentage than recommended can cause oil to seep out or leach” as it is not able to hold it. Too much fragrance load can also lead to soot, smoking, wick drowning out. Possible Solutions: Reduce the amount of fragrance oil used. Always research & test your wax to find out how much fragrance oil it can retain.
Little or No Scent Throw: Scent is less than expected when candle is burning. Possible Causes: Too small amount of fragrance oil used, poor quality of fragrance oil, adding fragrance at too low or too high temperature, not letting your candles cure after pouring, type of wax used, improper wick or wick sizing issue. **Note: Recommended temp for adding FO is 185° to ensure that it binds & mixes completely with the melted wax. As soon as you remove the melted wax from the heat source, it will begin to cool. Adding FO also continues the cooling process. If you add FO when the wax has cooled below 180°, you risk the possibility of poor cold and/or hot throw. Some internet bloggers recommend adding fragrance at or below its flash point. Flash point is the temperature at which the oil will ignite if introduced to a spark or flame. There is no safety concern whatsoever in adding fragrance at higher temperatures than the listed flash point. Possible Solutions: Add more fragrance, know the minimum & maximum percentages that are recommended for your wax, use high-quality fragrances, try & test different waxes (paraffin is well-known for it’s excellent scent throw, try blending a little in if using soy), be sure to use oils designed for candle-making, always make sure to have properly sized wicks for each container you use to ensure a great melt pool, let your candles cure before test burning (24 hrs minimum, 1-2 weeks recommended.)
Unstable or Large Flame: Candle flame is too high, wick is flickering continuously & jumping. Possible Causes: Wick is too large for your container. Wick needs to be trimmed. Possible Solutions: Always measure & test your wicks to ensure they are the correct size for the diameter of your container, keep wicks properly trimmed at 1/8 to 1/4 inches before burning & after long periods of burning (2-3 hours).
Wick Extinguishing: Candle wick is drowning out, won’t stay lit. Possible Causes: Too heavy use of additives (fragrance oil, dye, etc.), wick is too small for container. Possible Solutions: Use the right size wick for your container, always use proper amount of additives (know the minimum & maximum that your wax will allow.
Rough Surfaces/Cracking: Candles have an uneven, rough surface or small air bubbles which lead to small holes, cracking, and/or jump lines. Possible Causes: Stirring too vigorously, water somehow got into the wax, your candles cooled too fast, candles were poured at too cool of a temp. Possible Solutions: Avoid over-stirring, pour at a slightly hotter (+5 degrees) temperature, avoid water or moisture getting into your solid, flake & melted wax, heat your containers to 90-100° in a warm oven, pour more slowly, use a heat gun on low for any imperfections (you can also use it to preheat or warm your containers before pouring), cool your candles at room temp (avoid extremely hot or cold rooms). **Note: One overlooked source of moisture is humidity. If you reside in a humid area and have a recurring issue with this, consider storing your wax in a room with a dehumidifier.
Odd Scent: Candles have a “fuel-burning” type smell. Possible Cause: Wick is either too large or too small, candles have not cured long enough, “citrus” and/or “mint” fragrance notes seem to be the most common issues for some candle makers, too heavy fragrance load. Possible Solutions: Try either going down or up a wick size with these certain fragrance oils, let candles cure for a minimum of 24 hrs; 1 week is usually best, try a smaller percentage load of fragrance oil, some candle-makers feel that adding a very small amount of a ‘creamy vanilla” type fragrance oil helps to eliminate this problem.
**Disclaimer: We have taken every effort to ensure that this guide is as accurate as possible. Community Candle Supply is providing this information to be used a guide only & this does not substitute for proper testing & experimentation. We cannot guarantee or take responsibility for any errors or omissions in this guide. We are also not responsible for any actions or outcomes that are a consequence of using the above information. Thank you for your understanding!
We get frequent questions about eliminating wet-spots and reducing frosting in soy candles. It seems as if even experienced candle makers battle this problem at times, whether it’s due to changes in the weather, variations in cure temperatures, different fragrances or colors – it’s one of the most frustrating things a candle maker can encounter. It’s also very difficult to trouble-shoot as it’s nearly impossible to control all of the variables.
We have heard anecdotal evidence of a possible remedy for some of the pitfalls of working with soy wax, so we decided to jump into testing mode and see if this remedy might actually work the way everyone says, and we were thrilled with the results. Read on for more information!
Rumor has it that you can use 1/2 teaspoon of Coconut Oil per pound of wax to help reduce or eliminate wet spots and frosting. But what happens when you actually do this? Many soy waxes are pretty soft already. Will adding coconut oil make the wax even softer? According to the chatter on the web, it can make your wax even softer, which is why you don’t want to use any more than 1/2 teaspoon per pound.
Well, we tried this out to see how it worked using GW464 wax. The candle looked absolutely beautiful. Creamy looking wax that adhered completely to the glass, and continued to adhere to the glass even with multiple significant changes in temperature caused by our crazy Alabama spring. However, the wax is pretty soft. So if your candles are on display and someone touches the surface of the candle it would almost certainly leave a fingerprint or mark on your candle. We liked the result we got, but we still wanted to try to harden the candle up a bit.
For our next test, we wanted to see if using a bit of stearic acid with the coconut oil would harden up the wax while still retaining the creamy appearance and excellent glass adhesion. So I made four large candles using GW464, 1/2 teaspoon of coconut oil per lb of wax, and 1/8 teaspoon of stearic acid per pound of wax. Stearic Acid is made from palm oil and is known to raise the melting point of wax and harden it. I was absolutely delighted with the result of this test. The candle once again adhered to the glass without a single wet spot and the wax is firm to the touch and does not leave fingerprints or marks on the top of the candle.
But what about the burn? The candles made both with and without stearic acid burned exactly the way a candle without these additives burned. We noticed no significant difference in scent throw, melt pool, or burn rate.
I believe I have found my new favorite method of making soy candles. If you have experienced the frustration of wet spots in your soy candles or frosting, you may want to consider testing by adding coconut oil and stearic acid to see if they make a difference for you. We make no guarantees about how this might work, but we can say with conviction that it worked during our tests, and we have become believers!
Happy Candle Making!
We have compiled a helpful list of our fragrances that can be used in lotions, body sprays, and other products. For your particular product we recommend you consult the IFRA for each fragrance. The IFRA is listed on our website under the fragrance description. Look for a tab marked “IFRA Data” and consult the appropriate category for your formulation to determine what the safe usage rates are for your products.
If you have any questions about our fragrances, please email them to email@example.com!
Please Note: We add new fragrances often. We will update this list as new fragrances become available so be sure to check back often!
Lotion & Body Spray Fragrance Oils
True Rose Yankee Type®
Volcano by Capri Blue Type®
Japanese Cherry Blossom BBW Type®
Lick Me All Over
Egyptian Musk/Red Sea Romance
Pink Sugar Type®
Pearberry BBW Type®
Warm Vanilla Sugar BBW Type®
Oatmeal Milk & Honey
Pomegranate & Blackberry
Butt Naked/Tropical Paradise
Southern Sweet Tea
Coconut Lime Verbena BBW Type®
Sea Salt & Agave
Vanilla Bean BBW Type®
Zesty Citrus/Ruby Red Grapefruit
Macintosh Apple Yankee Type®
Coconut Creme Pie
Green Apple Jolly Rancher Type®
Kentucky Bourbon – Great For Men!
Blooms & Butterflies/Spring & Renewal Febreze Type®
British Parliament-Great for Men or Women
NEW! – White Sand Beaches BBW Type®
NEW! – Cotton Candy
NEW! – Tropical Serenity
NEW! – Rainbow Twist
NEW! – Peony & Blush Suede by Jo Malone®
NEW! – Fiji Date & Lemon
NEW & IMPROVED! – Cucumber
NEW & IMPROVED! – Cucumber Melon
NEW & IMPROVED! – Cucumber Mint
NEW & IMPROVED! – Cucumber Sea Salt
We get TONS of questions about wicks pretty much every day. We know there is a lot of confusion about wicks so we decided to shed some light on this murky subject! Read on to learn more about wicks and how they work for your container candles.
A container candle that is properly wicked will have certain characteristics.
First, the wick should be centered in the container and trimmed to 1/8-1/4 inch. A wick that is not centered may cause your candle to have excess un-melted wax on one side. Some people might assume in this case that the wick is not the correct size, however it could simply be that the wick was not centered in the container. In addition to the base being placed in the center of the container, most wicks need to be stabilized in the candle to ensure that the wick does not sag or move as the candle wax is solidifying. Sagging or slanted wicks will also cause the candle to burn irregularly.
When burned for 2.5-3 hours, the melt pool should reach the outer edges of the container, leaving little to no excess wax. The depth of the melt pool should be roughly 1/4-1/2 inch deep. If the melt pool being created is deeper than 1/2 inch, then consider testing a smaller size wick.
Excessive mushrooming or smoke may also be an indicator that the wick is too large. However, some fragrances may cause more mushrooming than others and excessive candle dye or other additives can also cause mushrooming and smoke.
Personal preference is a huge factor when choosing a wick. This is why we recommend testing when you change even one variable in your candles. Some people prefer a low flame while others like the look of a taller flame. Some candle makers are alarmed when they see any carbon formation on the tip of the wick, while others don’t mind at all. This is a highly personal process so please, test, test, test!
When we are asked to recommend a wick, we use our own experiences and knowledge to make recommendations, however product testing is critical and the maker is always responsible for their own finished product.
We have personally tested the entire LX series of wicks in both soy wax and paraffin wax. Because of this, we are most comfortable recommending this wick series to those that ask our opinion. We have included a diagram of our burn results for your use. Your results may vary depending on fragrance, color and wax used. This diagram does not substitute for proper testing, and the images may not be actual size. Please note the measurements in the centers of the circles. The manufacturer’s recommendations in addition to our burn test results are posted at CommunityCandleSupply.com. (Did I mention testing?!).
The LX wick is a uniquely braided cotton coreless, flat wick manufactured with stabilizing threads that ensure an optimum burn profile. This allows for a very stable and consistent flame, which minimizes or eliminates carbon buildup (mushrooming) while reducing afterglow, smoke and soot.